Candle shaking and guttering all over the place, lower now, old arm tired, takes it in the other hand and holds it high again, that’s it, that was always it, night, and the embers cold, and the glim shaking in your old fist, saying, Please! Please!
– Samuel Beckett, “Embers”
Having drinks at The Griffin, a pseudo-medieval castle-like tavern in Los Angeles, my friend and I were talking about bars. Real bars, I mean. You know, dives. And instantly, I remembered the saddest bar in the world: The Embers.
It was in my second year in San Francisco. My brother and I walked into The Embers, a shallow grave of a joint located on Irvine Street in Fog City’s Inner Sunset district. This bar was the antithesis – no, wait, the Antichrist – of all the trendy bars in town.
There were no beautiful people inside this bar. No polo shirts, hair gel, gold watches or bright color sweaters. There were no neon signs, no mirror balls, no strobe lights. No valets, no bouncers, no coat check girls. No cell phones, no TV sets, no Internet. No business whatsoever, except the business of drinking.
The other patrons that night were two greasy-haired zombies, belching away over Marlboros and stale pretzels. The gray-haired bartender, who was wearing the same 49er T-shirt he wore before Joe Montana played for the team, served us warm beer, using paper towels as coasters. Other than that, the only things moving in this place were ghosts and spiders in the dark corners.
Pretty depressing, right? But wait, here’s the kicker: All along the walls of this bar were clown paintings. Probably 50 of them. And these oil-based harlequins weren’t even smiling.
Now you would think there would be at least a good story on how these canvases got there – like the answer to those strange statues on Easter Island. Well, you would be wrong. Someone came in and left behind a portrait of some ugly-ass clown. Then in the course of few years, patrons kept dropping off their own Emmett Kelly masterpieces, sort of as a cruel joke.
And like all jokes, there are always punch lines. In the mid-‘90s, Rolling Stone magazine interviewed the great San Francisco drinking band American Music Club. When asked about his favorite local bar, lead singer Mark Eitzel said, “The Embers, of course. It’s the saddest bar in the world. If you have a few drinks there, you feel like you’re in the last place that still exists on the face of the earth.”
That interview was the beginning of the end for The Embers. Suddenly the bar was hopping, packed with young urban hipsters, rich kids, and, egad, couples! A few years later, some investors came along and bought off the place. The Embers closed its doors in 1996 and reopened as some trendy bar, which survived only a few years. Today, a Pluto’s Restaurant stands on its burial ground.
Now that’s really sad.
So what is your favorite bar?
“Outside this bar, there’s no one alive/Outside this bar, how does anyone survive?”
– Mark Eitzel, “Outside This Bar”